‘Corsage’ (2022) Review: The Ideals of Feminine Beauty
Empress Elisabeth of Austria spent her entire life struggling to conform to 19th-century European beauty standards. The ideal image of beauty comes from maintaining an excessively petite figure, participating in activities, and following a strict diet that requires royal monarchs to only drink broth and orange slices. This is the case of Marie Kreutzer’s historical drama, Corsage, which focuses on the titular object that leads Empress Elisabeth (Vicky Krieps) to struggle most of her life. An intimate and heartbreaking look at a woman on the verge of loneliness, old age, and the metaphorical symbolisation of a corset/corsage that constricts her from having her agency.
The movie opens with Empress Elisabeth of Austria, also known as Sisi by her close friends, submerged in a bathtub to test how long she can stay underwater without breathing. Sisi tries to keep herself from drifting into melancholy. She grieves the death of her child and the royal duties bore her immensely. Her marriage to Emperor Franz Joseph (Florian Teichtmeister) is completely devoid of sexual intimacy, so she fulfils her desires with other suitors. Sisi finds ways to cope with her depression and loneliness through rigorous activities such as fencing and horseback riding, all of which are regulated by her husband and even her son, Rudolf (Aaron Friesz). But at the centre of everything is the question of Sisi’s youthful beauty. As her 40th birthday approaches, the palace and the populace carefully observe her body, weight and public appearances to see how much she can endure the role of the most beautiful woman in the world.
Corsage is a fictional period retelling the life of a historical figure known for her great beauty. The life experience of the empress becomes a fascinating point that drives the narrative forward to show a woman’s autonomy and the standards of beauty in the middle of a midlife crisis. Kreutzer allows the audience to understand the deep insecurities and restrictions Sisi lives with, as she is conditioned to listen to everyone around her except for herself.
The main object — the corsage — is a metaphor that symbolises her restrictions, whether it is her privilege or her womanhood. Sisi is always under the watchful eyes of the people and the populace, including her husband and her son. Everyone around her tests her ability to take the role of the monarch and at the same time, the laces in her corsage keep tightening. Her life and her choices are made by the people around her, whether it means attending a dinner or an event, she is forced to adhere to these rules. Kreutzer doesn’t romanticise these aspects of womanhood that the Empress deals with, and Krieps embodies the performance of the royal monarch so effortlessly. She portrays her character as someone who has gone through years of grieving, longing for intimacy and most importantly, a woman who has been unhappy all her life. In each scene, Krieps reveals more secrets and desires of the Empress and lets herself drown in the role.
While the empress has a distaste for the restrictions, she does embrace the ideal femininity. She takes part in activities to keep her petite shape. But it’s not for the purpose of satisfying everyone around. Perhaps it comes from a sense of urgency to fill the role of a monarch. Many women in similar roles like the Empress throw themselves to fit the perfect vision of an aristocratic woman. The idea of womanhood, especially in the case of the empress, is defined by the utmost devotion to fit the beauty standards of 19th-century Europe. By adhering to these standards and rules, she is able to gain dominance in the social structures. It’s clear that Kreutzer wants to show the audience the struggles of the patriarchy. Sisi’s biggest enemy is not only it but time, which takes away the most important part of her very being — her femininity and beauty.
Corsage doesn’t attempt to stick to the historical facts of the Empress’ life. Kreutzer envisions the final chapter of Sisi’s life with a choice she makes by herself. A freeing act — considering the powerless existence she lived during her time. It’s a movie that focuses on the issues of women throughout history — fear of ageing and lack of autonomy, both of which a lot of women struggled with in the 20th century. Even though Sisi’s only power source is her feminine beauty and desire, Kreutzer uses the movie to give back autonomy to someone who never had it for herself.
